Bradshaw’s 1913 Handbook of Indian, Foreign and Colonial Travel in hand, Michael Portillo embarks on a stunning rail journey from the Thar Desert in Rajasthan to the Indian capital, New Delhi. From the gateway to the desert at Jodhpur, Michael travels by camel along what was the Silk Route to the village of Osiyan, where desert tribes still follow traditional lives.

Heading east, Michael reaches Rajasthan and its pink capital, Jaipur, where he receives a royal invitation to the Maharajah’s palace and a polo masterclass.

Close to Amer, a former Mahout, or elephant driver, who now runs a sanctuary for the animals, shows Michael how to care for them. Michael’s Golden Triangle route continues east to drought-prone Bandikui, where he discovers an extraordinary structure, over a thousand years old - one of India’s largest and deepest step wells. Show less