In the Renaissance, women cared what they looked like - they had to, in a world dominated by men. It was hard work, but they were helped by books containing beauty tips and recipes.

Boys were educated, but girls were expected either to marry or enter a convent. To catch your man, it was important to look your best. As the Renaissance visual world became populated by paintings of luscious female nudes by painters such as Titian, a vibrant literary output of beauty tips emerged. Mainly written by men like Giovanni Marinello, they were early versions of the self help books of the 20th century.

Full of advice about cosmetics, with 'solutions' to everything from podgy upper arms and smelly armpits, to droopy breasts, stretch marks, bad breath and drooling while sleeping, with particular emphasis on facial beauty, they were usually sold in the marketplace to aristocrats and peasant women alike.

Sales were in the thousands. Women, by necessity, had a wide knowledge of botanical and chemical remedies needed to help in childbirth and illness, but still had an appetite for self improvement. Some medical remedies recommended were used for other purposes – arsenic was common in beauty products, but was also useful for getting rid of a controlling husband or brother.

Through the stories of female courtesans, business women, artists, artisans, actors, and the first female writers to be published who start to rebel against the male dominance of their time, we find women beginning to discover their own voice. In a world where books are becoming more widely available, and burgeoning colonialism means that travel between nations is on the rise, the beauty of black women begins to be appreciated too as immigrants arrive in Italian cities.

Abridged by Libby Spurrier
Read by Fenella Woolgar
Produced by Celia de Wolff

A Pier production for BBC Radio 4 Show less