With Jane Horrocks. 2: Which Came F7rst?Chickens helped to win the Second World War and we rewarded them by putting them in battery farms and printing little lions on theireggs. Salmonella had us worried for a while, but now we can choose "corn-fed", "free-range" or "organic". What next? How about chickens genetically modified to taste the way they used to? For details see yesterday