First of four programmes Anytime Country
Papua New Guinea is an anthropologist's playground. Its three million people speak over 700 languages: a third of those known on earth. Sorcery rubs shoulders with Christianity, grass skirts compete with cotton dresses, and tribal wars succumb to democratic elections as this recently-independent country hurries into the late 20th century.
Elisabeth Mardall reports on her visit to the country. Producer PAT TAYLOR